Saint Saviour in Chora (Kariye Museum) originally
was a church belonging to a monastery built outside
the walls of Constantine
as "chora" means in the fields. Its
name remained the same when later the monastery
was included within the walls
of Theodosius in
the 5th century. There are no reliable traces
of the history of the monastery, but from the
8th century its name was associated with many
events. The Patriarch Germanus I (715-730) was
deposed and confined to the monastery for his
refusal to subscribe to the iconoclast
policy of Emperor Leo III the Isaurian. In the
reign of Constantine V (780-797), the most crucial
phase of the iconoclast controversy, the monastery
was deserted. Symeon, abbot of the monastery,
was among the participants in the 7th
Ecumenical Council of Nicaea
(787), which restored the veneration of icons.
After a period of decline, the monastery was restored
in the 11th century by Maria Doukaina, a relative
of Empress Catherine, wife of Isaac I Comnenus
(1057-lO59). The ruined basilica was replaced
by a new church of the Greek-cross plan with dome.
In the early 14th century, Theodore Metochites,
the pious and erudite Grand Logothete of the Treasury
during the reign of Andronicus II Palaeologus
(1282-1328), devoted a great part of his life
and fortune to the restoration and enlargement
of the church, adding the exonarthex and Paracclesion
(funerary chapel). He is believed to have supervised
the magnificent iconographic programme whose mosaics
and frescoes (the frescoes can only be found in
the Paracclesion) are masterpieces of the Palaeologan
Revival. When Andronicus III (1328-1341) usurped
the throne, he forced his grandfather to abdicate.
Theodore Metochites was exiled for his loyalty
to the old Emperor, but was allowed to return
and retire to the Chora Monastery where he died
on 13 March 1331, and is buried.
The semicircular main apse to the east is flanked by two smaller apses, polygonal on the outside, laid out as chapels.
A large dome rises above the square nave, two smaller domes above the end bays of the esonarthex, and one above the paracclesion.
The miracle-working Icon of the Hodegetria (She Who
Shows The Way), believed to have been painted
by St. Luke the Evangelist, was kept at the Monastery
of the Panaghia Hodegetria* (see below) and
was carried along the walls of the City to encourage
the defenders in times of siege. According to
historian Ducas' account of the capture
of Constantinople, the Xylokerkos Postern
had been opened to enable the defenders to make
a sortie on May 27. In order to protect this vulnerable
part of the walls, the Icon of the Hodegetria
was taken to Chora which was very near, but this
did not prevent the besiegers to break into the
city through the breach. The monastery was pillaged,
the precious gems adorning the historic image
were prised off and the icon was hacked into pieces.
The church was transformed into a mosque as Kariye
Camii in 1511, and the mosaics and frescoes were
concealed under plaster and timber. Their gradual
uncovering started in the 19th century. Between
1948 and 1959, works of restoration were undertaken
by the Byzantine Institute of America. Except
for some 11th century fragments of mosaics such
as the Christ Pantocrator (The Almighty) above
the gate between the esonarthex and exonarthex,
the mosaics and frescoes date back to the 14th
century and are among the most beautiful in the
Byzantine World.
After Hagia Sophia, Chora gives the most interesting
account of Byzantine Age in the city.
Saint Saviour in Chora was turned into a museum
in 1948.
(Open 09.00 - 16.00. closed on Wednesdays) Map 4, D 2
The
Mosaics of the Exonarthex (Outer Narthex)
1- Twelve year old Christ in the Temple with
the Scribes
2- Joseph's dream and the Journey to Bethlehem
3- Joseph and the Virgin at the census before
Cyrenius,
the Syrian Governor
4- Twelve year old Christ taken to Jerusalem
5- John the Baptist bearing witness for Christ
6- Temptation
7- Nativity
8- Joseph's dream and return of the Holy Family
from
Egypt to Nazareth
9- Christ Pantocrator (the Almighty)
10- Miracle at Cana
11/12- Multiplication of the Loaves
13- The Virgin and the Angels
14- The Three Wise Men asking the birth Place
of Christ
15- Flight of Elizabeth, mother of St John
the Baptist
16- Herod enquiring about Christ's birthplace
17- Mothers mourning their children
18/19- Christ healing the Paralytic at the
Pool of Bethesda
20/22- Massacres of the Children ordered by
Herod
23- Christ and the Samaritan Woman
Mosaics of the Esonarthex (Inner Narthex)
24- The Virgin and Christ's ancestors in
the flutes
25- Joachim's offerings rejected
26- Annunciation of St Anne
27- Joachim in the Wilderness
28- Anne and Joachim meet in Jerusalem
29- The Birth of the Blessed Virgin
30- The Virgin caressed by her Parents
31- Joachim presents the Virgin to the Priest
at the Temple
32- First steps of the Virgin
33- The Virgin receiving bread from the
Angel Gabriel
34- At the age of three the Virgin is presented
in the Temple where she will stay nine years
35- The Virgin instructed at the Temple
36- The Virgin receiving the skein of purple
wool for the Temple veil
37- Zacharias praying before the Rods of
the Suitors
38- Joseph with the sprouting rod
39- Joseph taking the Virgin to his House
40- Annunciation to the Virgin at the Well
41- Joseph taking leave of the Virgin
42- The Doner Theodor Methochites presenting
his Church to Christ
43- St Peter
44- St Paul
45- Christ Pantocrator and his ancestors
in the flutes
46- Deisis with Isaac Comnenus and Melane
47- Christ healing Peter's Mother in law.
48- Christ healing the Woman with the Issue
of Blood
49- Christ healing the Man with the Withered
Hand
50- Christ healing the Leper
51- Christ healing the Deaf and Dumb Man
52- Christ healing various deseases
53- Christ healing the two Blind Men of
Jericho
Mosaics of the Nave
54- Koimesis, the Dormition of the Virgin
55- Christ with the Gospel
56- The Virgin Mary with the Christ Child
Frescoes of the Paracclesion
57- Anastasis , the Resurrection
58- Christ raising the Daughter of Jarius
59- Christ raising the widow's son of Naim
60- The Archangel Michael
61- The Last Judgement
62- The Rich Man in Hell appels to Lazarus
for water
63- The Torments of the Damned
64- The Land and the Sea giving up the Dead
65- Entry of the Elect into Paradise
66- An Angel conducts the Soul of Lazarus
to Heaven
67- Lazarus the Beggar in Abraham's Bosom
68- The Virgin with the Christ Child and
twelve angels
69- St Cosmas the Poet
70- St Joseph the Poet
71- St Theophanes the Confessor
72- St John Damascene
73- Moses and the Burning Bush
74- Jacob's Ladder and Jacob wrestling with
the Angel
75a- The priests took up the Ark of Covenan
to bring it out of Sion, the city of David
75b- The King and all Israel assembled before
the Ark
75c- The Ark of the Lord brought into the
Temple of Salomon
76- The Souls of the Righteous in the Hand
of God
77- Isaiah and the Angel
78- Aaron and his Sons bring their offerings
before the Altar
Tombs
in the Paracclesion
A- Tomb of Theodore Methochites
B/C- The inscriptions are lost
D- Tomb of Michael Tornikes, general and
friend of Metochites
Tombs
in the Outer Narthex
E/F- Not identified
G- Tomb of Princess Irene Palaeologina
Tomb
in the Inner Narthex
H- Tomb of Demetrius Doukas Angelus Palaeologus
Christ Pantocrator -11th century mosaic between the two narthex
Joseph and the Virgin at the census before Cyrenius,
the Syrian Governor - Mosaic of the Outer Narthex
Return of the Holy Family from Egypt to Nazareth - Outer Narthex
Christ healing the ill person suffering of dropsy
Mosaic of the Outer Narthex
Fresco of the Resurrection (Anastasis) - Paracclesion
The Virgin with the Christ Child and twelve angels
Fresco of the Paracclesion
Parraclesion
Multiplication of the Loaves
Mosaic of the Outer Narthex
* The Monastery of the Panaghia Hodegetria
was founded in the 5th century by Empress Pulcheria
(399-453), the daughter of Emperor Arcadius.
Here was kept a picture of the Virgin Mary, believed
to have been painted by St Luke, and which was
sent to Pulcheria, who had taken a vow of chastity
and was venerated as a saint. The explanation
of the name of the icon, Panagia Hodegetria (She
who shows the Way), is given through the legend
which tells that nearby the church of the monastery
was a source where the blinds and all who suffered
eye disorders came to be healed, since the Holy
Virgin would have appeared to two blind people
and guided them here where she restored their
vision. The sanctuary was rebuilt by Michael III
(842-867) but almost nothing has remained of it
(the few ruins are located near Gülhane Park).
The icon is said to have been destroyed during
the capture of Constantinople
after it was placed into Saint Saviour in Chora.
The Hippodrome
(At Meydani) was the center of the city's
public life during centuries. Its construction
was started by Roman Emperor Septimius
Severus in 203. It was enlarged and richly
embellished by Constantine
the Great and after him, many emperors rivalled
to adorn it. The hippodrome was approximately
400 m/ 438 yards in length and 120 m/ 131 yards
in breadth. At
the northern end were the "carceres",
stalls for the horses and "bigae", two-horse
chariots, and "quadrigae", four-horse
chariots. Here were also the charioteers' (aurigae)
barracks. On top of the central arch above the
carceres stood four gilded bronze horse statues
attributed by Pliny the Elder to Lysippus. Also
above the carceres, close to the north-east corner,
arose the "kathisma", a miniature palace
with the Imperial loge in front. The kathisma
(located approximately on the site of Emperor
Wilhem II Fountain) was connected to the Great
Palace. The race track was surrounded by high
walls with many doorways, by stands and colonnaded
galleries. Storehouses extended under the tiers
of seats. Because of a level difference, the southern
portion of the Hippodrome, terminated in a semicircle
(the sphendone), was elevated on massive vaults.
In the middle of the Hippodrome was the "spina",
a central axis endowed with various monuments
and statues. The Hippodrome is thought to have
had a capacity of 100.000 spectators. Here, athletic
activities, various games and chariot races took
place, giving rise to stakes among the people
who were divided between two opponent political
and religious factions who took their names from
the two colors worn by the charioteers (originally
there were four colours, but the Reds and Whites
were aborbed by the two others): the Blues, who
represented the upper classes and upheld the Orthodox
doctrine, and the Greens who represented the lower
classes and upheld the Monophysitism doctrine.
The Blues seated in the stands to the left of
the imperial box, and the Greens seated in the
right stands. The emperors, according to their
tendendies, used to protect one of the factions.
On the other hand, the people would openly show
their support or displeasure for the emperor.
This kind of situation sometimes ended with political
demonstrations or an uprising of one of the factions.
However, in January 532, the two factions joined
in the Nika revolt against Emperor Justinian
and Empress Theodora
(nika was the people's cry which meant "victory"
during the games) when a part of the city was
burnt down. Justinian was prepared to flee, but
Theodora's courage and determination saved the
situation. General Belisarius crushed the rebellion
by killing 30,000-40,000 persons whom he surrounded
in the Hippodrome.
During the Fourth Crusade
in 1204, the doge of Venice, Enrico Dandolo, ordered
the Latins to sack
the city. The Hippodrome was destroyed and plundered.
He had the four gilded bronze horses, mentioned
above, wrenched from their mountings and sent
to Venice with many other riches: they were placed
on top of the facade of the San Marco church.
In 1797 Napoleon sent the statues as spoils of
war to Paris where they were placed on top of
the Arch of Carrousel, but upon his defeat the
horses were taken back to Venice where they still
remain. Following the Ottoman
conquest, the Hippodrome, taking the Turkish
name "At Meydani" (horse square) was
used to train horses and for the equestrian game
of cirit. The
Hippodrome was the scene of Janissary rebellions
but also of splendid festivities with parades
and fireworks, like on the occasion of the marriage
of Princess Hatice (a sister of Süleyman the Magnificent)
to Grand Vizier Ibrahim Pasha (whose palace stands
on the western side of the Hippodrome) in 1524,
or on the occasion of the circumcision feast held
for Süleyman's sons Mustafa, Mehmet, and Selim
in 1530.
Today, only three monuments of the Spina have
remained in situ:
- The Egyptian Obelisk of Thutmosis III
(ca 1500 BC), a monolith
of pink granite, comes from Karnak in Egypt. Probably
transferred sometime in the 4th century at Constantine
I or at one of his successor's behest, the obelisk
remained many years in Alexandria waiting to be
shipped to Constantinople. Once arrived, it had
to wait again until it was raised in 390 by Theodosius,
hence its name Obelisk of Theodosius. The
hieroglyphs praise Tutmosis III, relating the
pharaoh's victorious military campains in Mesopotamia
and depicting him making offering to the god Amon-Re
who also leads him by the hand (at the top). The
obelisk, which rests on four bronze pedestals
and a marble base, is 19 m/ 60 ft in height and
25 m/ 80 ft including the full base. Originally,
it was much taller but a part was broken probably
during its shipment to Constantinople.
On the lower part of the base there are Greek
and Latin inscriptions, low reliefs depicting
the erection of the obelisk on the hippodrome,
and chariot races around the spina where it was
erected. On the upper part of the base, the low
reliefs depict the following scenes: on the east
face (facing the Blue Mosque), Emperor Theodosius
is shown with his two his sons, Arcadius and Honorius,
distributing prizes to the winners of the races.
On the north face (facing the German Fountain),
Emperor Arcadius is shown together with his wife,
seated in the Kathisma. On the west face, Theodosius
is show together with his wife and his sons, receiving
the tribute paid by the defeated enemies of the
Empire. On the south face, the Emperor is shown,
enthroned, watching chariot races with his family
and surrounded by guards.
- The Serpentine Column was originally
erected in front of the Temple of Appolo in Delphi.
The column, made of three entwined serpents supporting
a huge golden bowl on their (now missing) heads,
was a donation of the 31 Greek cities federacy
who melted the spoils of war they obtained after
they defeated the Persians at the battle of Plataea
in 479 BC. The column is thought to have been
brought by Constantine I in the 4th century AD.
The upper jaw of one of the serpents' head is
on display at the Archaeological Museum.
- The Column of Constantine Porphyrogenetus
is made of stone blocks placed on a marble base.
All what is known about this Byzantine monument
is that it was restored and embellished in the
10th century by Constantine VII Porphyrogenetus.
In 1204 during the Fourth
Crusade, the bronze relief plaques that adorned
the column were ripped off and melted down for
re-use. The bottom of the pit approximately indicates
the original level of the Hippodrome.
-
Emperor Wilhem II Fountain (Alman Çesmesi,
the German Fountain) was offered by Kaiser
Wilhem II to sultan Abdülhamit
to mark his second visit to the Ottoman capital
in 1898 and to commemorate the alliance of German
and Ottoman powers. Brought from Germany, the
fountain was inaugurated on the Hippodrome in
January 1901 on the site of what was the Byzantine
Emperors Lodge. The fountain, made of marble,
has an octogonal shape and the interior of its
dome is covered with mosaics. The fountain stands
at the north side of the Hippodrome where the
main entrance was situated.
The Obelisk of Theodosius
The Serpentine Column and
The Constantine Column
General view
The base of the obelisk with bas-reliefs depicting Emperor Theodosius
East face showing Theodosius with his two his sons, Arcadius
and Honorius, distributing prizes to the winners of the chariot races
Wilhem II Fountain (Alman Çesmesi)
The Great Palace Mosaic Museum: After
324, when Emperor Constantine the Great made
Byzantium the new capital of the Roman Empire
under the name Constantinople, he had his new
residence, the Palatium Magnum which also became
the seat of the government, built on a hill,
intending it to rival the Palatine in Rome.
When the Nika
Insurrection of January 532 reduced most
of the palace complex to rubble, Emperor Justinian
ordered a scheme of reconstruction and renovation.
The palace district was enlarged from Haghia
Sophia and the Hippodrome to the coast line
and houses were built on the western slopes.
The main buildings and imperial quarters were
shifted to the middle terrace above the palace
harbour. Over the centuries of Byzantine rule,
the palatial complex and area underwent additions,
conversions, and extensions, and finally suffered
great devastation by the Latins during the Fourth
Crusade in 1204. The old Great Palace declined
when Alexius I Comnenus (1081-1118) moved the
imperial court to the Palace
of Blachernae,
but it continued to be used for official receptions
and audiences. Abandoned after the Byzantine
reconquest (1261), building materials began
to be removed from the Grand Palace to be re-used
elsewhere. Reduced to a heap of stones, its
substructures were used as a prison in the 14th
and 15 th centuries.
The
palatial complex was organized as follows:
the
Mese (same orientation as the present
Divan Yolu) was the ceremonial colonnaded
way joining the Forum of Constantine to
the
Augusteum
Square in front of Haghia Sophia.
On
the western
side of this large
square
stood the "Million", a triumphal
arch, from which all distances between
Constantinople and the most distant provinces
of the Empire were once measured. Further
south were the Chalke Gate (a triumph
arch covered with plates of bronze), the
Senate building and the Magnaura Palace.
To the south-west were the barracks, the
Scholae, the Consistorium (the council
chamber).
Further west, adjoining the Hippodrome, were the
magnificent Thermae
of Zeuxippos, Haghio Stephanos Church,
the Daphne Palace (the oldest palace of
the Great Palace), the Kathisma Palace
with the imperial loge opening onto the
race track. Then the Golden Triclinium
(banqueting hall) and Triconchae (triple
shell) Palace. On a lower terrace to the
south-west, the Palace of the Boukoleon
built near the imperial harbour. To the
north-east rose the Tzykanisterion (polo
stadium).
After
the Ottoman conquest, the area was turned
into a housing quarter and Sultan Ahmet
I had the old Daphne and Kathisma Palaces
replaced by the complex of the Blue
Mosque.
Between 1935-1954, British archaeologists
partly excavated a portion of the Daphne
Palace. They unearthed a palace hall (aula)
with Corinthian
columns and a large peristylar court
which had been redecorated with mosaic
pavement at the time of Justinian in the
first half of the 6th century. The mosaics
depict the animal kingdom, scenes from
everyday life, hunting and playing, pastoral
and bucolic scenes, and legends.
Additional archaeological works and the
rescue, cleaning and remounting of the
mosaics in their former place have been
carried out between 1983-1997 by a joint
Austrian-Turkish team. Further excavations
have been directed since then in the area.
The museum is situated at theArasta
Bazaar, behind the Blue Mosque.
(Open 09.30 - 17.00. Closed on Wednesdays) Map
2, E 3
Boys riding a dromedary and their guide
The hoop game
Herdsman milking a goat
The eagle and the snake, symbolyzing the victory of light over darkness
The tigress griffin devouring a lizard
Hunting the tiger
Haghia Sophia (Ayasofya): the present basilica
is the third to have been built on this site:
the first one, which was erected by Emperor
Constantine I's
son Constantius II and whose dedication ceremony
took place in 360, was connected to Haghia
Irene with which it formed the Megale Ecclasia
(the Great Church). It was partially burnt down
in the uprising of 404. Theodosius II repaired
it and the second church opened in 415. Following
the Nika
Revolt ("nika" was the people's
cry which meant "vanquish" during
the games) against Emperor Justinian
in January 532, and together with Haghia Irene,
the church was destroyed a second time by a
fire. As soon as his position was once again
consolidated, on 23 February 532 Justinian undertook
the reconstruction of the basilica which he
dedicated to the Divine Wisdom"Theia
Sophia" (the name "Haghia Sophia"
or in Turkish "Ayasofya", given by
the Ottomans, has been retained up to our day).
He commissioned two genius architects, Anthemius
of Tralles (Aydin) and Isodorus
of Miletus (both originating from Western
Anatolia) and brought building materials from
all over the Empire. Among these were columns
from the Temple
of Artemis at Ephesus and other ancient
pagan temples. In the forecourt of the basilica,
the Emperor had his equestrian statue erected
at the top of a very high column. Once the construction
completed, the basilica was inaugurated on 27
December 537, and Justinian, entering the Haghia
Sophia, pronouced these historical words "Solomon,
I have surpassed you!".
Thus Haghia Sophia became the main religious
center of the entire Byzantine world. The innovative
architecture and vast dimensions of Haghia Sophia,
crowned with the huge central dome which represented
the celestial realm in Orthodox belief, and
the splendor of its decoration would awaken
awe and admiration and make the church unrivalled
during centuries.
However the structure of Haghia Sophia was not
entirely stable and the church suffered serious
damage from earthquakes and fires. Following
the earthquakes of 553 and 557, repairs were
undertaken but a part of the central dome collapsed
in 558. Isodorus of Miletus'nephew, Isodorus
the Younger, was put in charge of the construction,
building a new lighter dome and elevating it
about 7m / 30ft. The church was reopened on
23 December 562. Two other earthquakes occured
in 869 and 989 and repairs were once again undertaken
during six years by an Armenian architect called
Tiridat.
Haghia Sophia was the scene of many important
events throughout Byzantine
history. Here, emperors were crowned and
victories celebrated. During the iconoclastic
period all religious images were removed.
In 1204, during the Fourth
Crusade, the church was pillaged, the altar
was shattered and animals were taken inside
in order to be loaded with booty. The Holy Relics,
of which "a Fragment of the True Cross",
were sent to churches in the West. Five emperors
were crowned in the basilica during the Latin
occupation.
Beautiful mosaics were applied everywhere
on the walls of the colossal edifice. Many of
them have not been found even though they are
known from several sources and have been sketched.
All the figural mosaics date from 867 and after,
following the conclusion of the Iconoclastic
period in 843, and after 1261
when the Byzantines regained control of Constantinople.
In 1344, another earthquake seriously damaged
the church whose restoration was made only in
1354 because at that time, the Byzantine Empire
was in a bad financial position. In the first
half of the 15th century, western travellers
reported that Haghia Sophia was in a deplorable
state of disrepair. On 29 May 1453, when Mehmet
the Conqueror entered the city, he went
straight to Haghia Sophia but he found the church
unmaintained. Following a thorough cleaning,
the church was converted into a mosque where
the young Sultan recited his first Friday prayers.
Under the Conqueror's reign, a wooden minaret
and a mihrab (prayer niche) were added for the
islamic cult. In 1572, Selim
II commissioned Chief Imperial Architect
Sinan with
the great restoration of the building which
was leaning to one side. The butresses placed
in the 9th, 10th and 13th centuries were strenghtened
or amended and three minarets (the one on the
Imperial Gate side is fluted) were added to
the brick minaret (dating from the reign of
Mehmet the Conqueror or Bayezit II), while the
old wooden minaret was removed. Also, a minber
(pulpit) carved in marble, tiles in and around
the apse (one of them is a depiction of the
Holy Kaaba in Mecca), a muezzin's gallery and
a loge for the sultan were added inside. These
extensive works were completed under the reign
of Murat III. After
the construction by Sinan of Selim II's türbe,
many members of the Ottoman dynasty (sultans
until Ibrahim I as well as princes) were buried
in the southwest side of Haghia Sophia.
During the restoration works led between 1847-1849
at Sultan Abdülmecit's
behest, the mosaics, which had been concealed
under layers of whitewash or plaster during
the Islamic period, were uncovered by Swiss
architect Gaspare Fossati and his brother
Giuseppe. Before they were covered up again,
Fossati made sketches of them, but in 1852,
he merely published a color album consisting
of drawings showing the interior, exterior and
surroundings of Haghia Sophia. Prussian architect
Salzenberg made color sketches of the mosaics
published in an album in 1854. The former Imperial
Loge was demolished and replaced by a new one
rich in ornament. The original Imperial Pavillion
connected to it was also remodelled by Fossati.
Eight round wooden plaques, 7.5 meters in diameter
and replacing the former square ones, were hung
from the piers at the gallery level. Kazasker
Izzet Efendi decorated them with calligraphic
writings mentioning the names of Allah, the
Prophet Mohammed, his two grand-sons Hassan
and Husseyn, and of the first four Caliphs Abou
Bekr, Omar, Osman and Ali. The names will be
read clockwise starting from the right of the
apse: Allah, Mohammed, Abou Bekr, Osman, Husseyn,
Hassan, Ali and Omar. Kazasker Izzet Efendi
also restored the inscription in the center
of the dome which most probably conceals a mosaic
of Christ Pantocrator: originally, there was
a 6th century large cross replaced about 842
by a mosaic of Christ. Damaged during the earthquake
in 989, it fell off in 1348 and a huge mosaic
of Christ Pantocrator was applied instead in
1355.
After the earthquake of 1894, when large peaces
of plaster and mosaics fell from the semi-domes
and vaults, Haghia Sophia remained close for
many years. A team of foreign experts worked
on new restoration projects which were interrupted
by the Balkan War and the First World War. Restoration
works could only be resumed after the War
of Independence and the foundation of the
Turkish Republic.
In 1932 an American, Thomas Whittemore,
was granted permission to uncover the mosaics
which were discernible under the withewash applied
by Fossati, and he started his work from the
Imperial Gate.
At the end of 1934, at Atatürk's
behest, Haghia Sophia ceased to be a mosque.
On 1 February 1935, it was inaugurated as a
museum.
Restoration and excation works have been carried
out since then bringing to light new findings.
During the past years the American Byzantine
Institute took care of the restoration of the
mosaics. Conservation and restoration project
of the surface decoration of the dome carried
on by the Ministry of Culture, Directorate General
of Monuments and Museums, Central Laboratory
for Restoration and Conservation, is sponsored
by World Monuments Fund since 2000.
The
architecture and mosaic decoration of Haghia
Sophia
The
edifice is a domed basilica oriented on the
northwest-southeast axis. It is 93m/ 305 ft
long from the exonarthex to the apse. The nave
is 75 m/ 246ft long and 70 m/ 230 ft wide including
the side aisles. The church is composed of an
exonarthex (the outer narthex) with five
doors leading into the narthex divided
into nine sections by arches.
The walls of the narthex are lined with polychrome
marble panels and bordered by a frieze and its
vaults are adorned with mosaics with geometric
motifs and crosses on a gold background. At
the north end of the narthex, a ramp leads to
the upper level.
At the south end is the "Horologion,
a vestibule with bronze doors (838) through
which the emperors entered Haghia Sophia. The
mosaic of the Virgin, Constantine and Justinian
can be seen above the inner door: this 10th
century mosaic depicts the Virgin Mary holding
the Infant Jesus in her lap. In the two medallions
are written "Meter" and "Theou"
(Mother of God). On Mary's left is Emperor Constantine,
the founder of Christian Constantinople, offering
a model of the city. At his side is written
"Constantine the Great among the Saints".
On Mary's right is Emperor Justinian offering
the Haghia Sophia model. The writing at his
side says "Emperor Justinian Whose Memory
is Renowned".
Each section of the narthex has a door giving
onto the central space of the church. All these
bronze plated doors date back to the period
of Justinian. The tall door in the centre, or
Imperial Gate, was reserved for the emperor
who had to prostrate himself before crossing
the threshold. It is crowned by the mosaic
of the Christ Pantocrator: this 10th century
mosaic depicts Emperor Leon VI (886-912) prostrating
before Christ Pantocrator (the Almighty) seated
upon a jeweled throne. The inscription on the
book he holds says "Peace be with you,
I am the Light of the World". In the medallions
are the Virgin Mary and an archangel, probably
Gabriel. The rectangular
nave, paved with marble, is separated from
the side aisles by four huge piers and columns
all of them richly decorated. The dome
has forty windows set in it and in the center
there is a calligraphic inscription executed
by Izzet Efendi in 1849. It rises 55 m/ 180
ft above the pavement and its diameter varies
between 31.20 m/ 102 ft and 32.80 m/ 107.60
ft. The dome was damaged during earthquakes
and fires and restored a few times. The dome's
thrust is received by the pendentives (adorned
with frescoes depicting Seraphim), columns,
arches, vaults and the two large semi-domes,
themselves divided into three semi-domes. Thesemi-dome of the apse is decorated
with the mosaic of the Virgin and the Child
, probably the oldest in the church: it
depicts the
Virgin Mary (Theotokos) with Jesus in her lap.
Gold which is largely used to contrast with
the sobriety of the Virgin's garment enhances
the beauty of the composition. In order to examine
this beautiful mosaic more closely, one should
look through the easternmost opening of the
upper gallery. Two mosaics depicting angels can be seen
on the arch above the bema (chancel).
The one on the right, mostly intact, is Archangel
Gabriel.
The upper level of Haghia
Sophia includes the "gynekaion",
a space over the narthex reserved for the women
with a loggia for the emperor, and galleries.
A marble separation wall carved like
wooden doors delimits the entrance to the
southwest gallery which houses beautiful
mosaics:
a 12th or 13th century mosaic depicts the
Deesis where Christ Pantocrator (the Almighty)
is flanked by the Virgin Mary and St John the
Baptist (Prodromus) begging for His help to
mankind on the Day of Judgment. On the eastern
wall on the right of the gallery, a 11th century
mosaic depicts Christ sitted on a bench-like
throne, flanked by Empress Zoe
holding a scroll documenting the donation of
money to the church, and her third husband Constantine
IX Monomachus (1042-1055) holding the purse
with the donation. To the right of this mosaic
is a panel which depicts the Virgin holding
the Infant Jesus and flanked by John II Comnenus
(1118-1143) and his wife of Hungarian origin,
Irene, and their son Alexius.
Situated
outside the Horologion door is the Baptistry.
When it was converted into a mausoleum, the
large baptismal font was placed in the small
courtyard connecting the baptistry to the church.
The skeuophylakion, a small circular
building outside the northeasten corner may
possibly date back to the time of the first
Haghia Sophia. It housed the Church treasure.
In the foreground is the Omphalion where the Byzantine
emperors' coronation took place. On the right,
muezzin private lodge
The Sultan's Loge (Hünkar Mahfili) designed by Fossati
View of the apse
The mirhab is flanked by two candelsticks
taken from the Cathedral of Budapest when
that town was conquered in 1526.
North aisle and upper gallery
Upper north
gallery
Marble Byzantine door
Mosaic of the Virgin Mary in the
semi-dome of the apse
Fresco of a Seraphim on a pendentive
of the central dome
Mosaic of an Archangel Gabriel
on the arch of the bema
Mosaic of the Christ in the center of the Deesis - south gallery
Mosaic of the Virgin and Child with Emperor Johannes II
Comnenos and his wife Irene - south gallery
Mosaic of Christ flanked by Empress Zoe and
Emperor Constantine IX - eastern wall of south gallery
The Virgin with the Emperors Constantine and Justinian
over the doorway of the south vestibule
1
Excavations of the Theodosian Church
2 The Moist
Column (to make a wish)
3 The Choir's
Platform
4 The Sultans'Pulpit
5 The Tresury
6 The Old
Baptistry, now Mausoleumof Mustafa
I and
Ibrahim I
7 The Fountain
8 The School
9 The Clock
House
A Tombs and
Mausoleums (Türbe) of the sultans and
Princes
M
Mosaics
of major importance on the ground floor
In the inner Narthex above the main entrance
(Imperial Gate): Emperor Leon VI (886-912)
is prostrating before Christ Pantocrator (the
Almighty) seated upon a jeweled throne. The
inscription on the book he holds says "Peace
be with you, I am the Light of the World".
In the medallions are the Virgin Mary and an
archangel, probably Gabriel (10C mosaic).
In the semi-dome of the Apse: the Virgin
Mary (Theotokos) with Jesus in her lap. Gold
which is largely used to contrast with the sobriety
of the Virgin's garment enhances the beauty
of the composition. In order to examine this
beautiful mosaic more closely, one should look
through the easternmost opening of the upper
gallery.
On the right side of the large, broad cradle
vault in front of the apse, Archangel Gabriel
is standing with the tip of his wings drooping
and he is wearing a ceremonial garment peculiar
to prominent official of the Byzantine palace.
The mosaic of the other side represented Archangel
Michael.
At the end of the inner narthex, just before
the exit, is the beautiful 10C mosaic depicting
the Virgin Mary holding the Infant Jesus in
her lap. In the two medallions are written "Meter"
and "Theou" (Mother of God). On Mary's
left is Emperor Constantine, the founder of
Christian Constantinople, offering a model of
the city. At his side is written "Constantine
the Great among the Saints". On Mary's
right is Emperor Justinian offering the Haghia
Sophia model. The writing at his side says "Emperor
Justinian Whose Memory is Renowned".
M
Mosaics
of major importance in the galleries
In the center of each of a row of niches
on the lowest part of the wall are the pictures
of the church notables who were canonized.
On the wall of the south side is a 12 or
13C mosaic depicting the Deesis: Christ Pantocrator
(the Almighty) is flanked by the Virgin Mary
and St John the Baptist (Prodromus) begging
for His help to mankind on the Day of Judgment.
On the eastern wall on the right of the gallery
a 11C mosaic depicts Christ sitted on a bench-like
throne, flanked by Empress Zoe holding a scroll
documenting the donation of money to the church,
and her third husband Constantine IX Monomachus
(1042-1055) holding the purse with the donation.
To the right of the mosaic of Zoe is a panel
which depicts the Virgin holding the Infant
Jesus and flanked by John II Comnenus (1118-1143)
and his wife of Hungarian origin, Irene, and
their son Alexius.
Inside the first pier supporting the dome arch
in the north gallery, the mosaic of Emperor
Alexander is located in a remote and dark place.
The latter reigned jointly with his brother
Leo VI (886-912-913) but he was an insignificant
person, prefering enjoying himself in the palace
rather than taking care of the state.
On the surface of the four pendentives there
are four angels (cherubim or seraphim) made
essentially of mosaics, but the two on the west
were completed as frescoes as a result of destruction
which occured during the Byzantine period. These
were never concealed with withewash.
During Fossati's restoration, their faces were
covered with ovals containing a single gilded
star.